Block paving accounts for a significant proportion of new driveway installations in the UK, and it is easy to see why. It looks good when it is done well, it can be relaid to access drains or services underneath, and it comes in a range of colours and patterns. It also shows the results of poor installation faster than most other surface types — and those results are expensive to put right.
The Base Is the Whole Job
A block paving driveway that sinks, shifts, or develops hollows within a few years has almost always failed at the base, not the surface. The blocks themselves rarely fail. The correct construction sequence is: excavation to the right depth (typically 200–250mm for a standard car driveway); a well-compacted hardcore sub-base (MOT Type 1 crushed limestone or granite, laid in layers and plate-compacted); a sharp sand bedding layer of approximately 40mm; and then the blocks, cut to fit at edges, with kiln-dried sand brushed into the joints. If any of these stages is skimped — a thin sub-base, uncompacted material, too-wet bedding sand — settlement is inevitable.
"The sub-base is the foundation of the entire installation. For a domestic driveway taking private car traffic, a minimum of 100mm of well-compacted MOT Type 1 is the usual specification — more on poorly draining ground or where a larger vehicle will use the drive. There is no cosmetic fix for a failed sub-base: the blocks must come up and the base be rebuilt."— Interpave — The Precast Concrete Paving Association
Planning Permission and SuDS
Since 2008, front garden driveways in England must either use permeable surfacing or direct run-off to a lawn or border — not to the road or street drain. Impermeable block paving (standard concrete or clay blocks on an impermeable base) laid over more than 5m² of front garden now requires Householder Planning Permission under the Town and Country Planning (General Permitted Development) Order. Permeable block paving, laid on a permeable sub-base with appropriate drainage, is exempt. Wales, Scotland, and Northern Ireland have their own rules — check with your local planning authority before specifying.
"Permeable paving is not just a planning requirement in many cases — it is better engineering. A permeable surface recharges groundwater, reduces flood risk, and eliminates the need for traditional drainage channels. The cost premium over standard block paving is modest and the long-term maintenance benefit is significant."— SuDS — Sustainable Drainage Systems: Permeable Paving
Block Types and What They Mean for the Price
Standard concrete blocks (60mm or 80mm thick) are the most affordable option and widely available. Clay pavers are harder-wearing, retain their colour better, and cost considerably more. Natural stone setts — granite, sandstone, or porcelain — are at the premium end of the market and require a different laying technique. Porcelain paving blocks have become popular for their low maintenance but are brittle to cut and require an experienced installer. The price difference between a competent standard block paving job and a premium natural stone installation can be substantial — getting like-for-like quotes from contractors matters.
Joint Sand and Weed Control
The joints between blocks are filled with kiln-dried sand after laying, and this sand will need to be topped up periodically as it washes or blows out. Weeds growing in joints are not a sign of a failed installation — they are an ongoing maintenance task. Polymeric jointing sand (which sets harder and is more weed-resistant) can be used instead of standard kiln-dried sand but costs more and requires careful application on a dry day. A weed membrane under the sub-base does not prevent weeds growing down from the surface through the joints.
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